The generally accepted figure in the publishing and photographic
industry is 300 PPI. However, this tells very little of the real
story of resolution and image sharpness/quality.
The key
issue here is resolution - that is, how much fine detail is recorded by
the capture system, and can be seen in a print. It's also important to
separate detail itself from apparent sharpness (i.e. edge definition) -
as poor use of the unsharp mask so often demonstrates, fine detail and
sharpness are two very different things.
The first thing I
would say is that very often pin sharp results just aren't required. A
fair percentage of images simply do not rely on fine detail in any
critical way to achieve their expressive goals. That said, most images
do benefit from fine detail, especially when viewed for extended
periods - fine detail rewards the eye as it moves through the image,
and allows your image to work more successfully when viewed from closer
distances. Fine details gives your image greater longevity and
interest.
The first and most important thing that will
affect your image's sharpness (and thus its quality when enlarged) is
your photographic technique. No amount of spending on fancy lenses will
save you if your basic technique is poor.
The old maxim of
being able to hand hold at (1/focal length) is fine for adequate
results with small prints. The reality is, however, that even when
using a 35mm camera with a 50mm lens, there will typically be an
obvious visible difference in sharpness between shots taken (hand held)
at 1/60th, 1/125th and 1/250th. Fundamentally, the faster shutter speed
will result in a sharper image, and most people grossly over-estimate
their ability to hand hold their cameras if shooting for anything but
the smallest prints. There is no substitute for steady support, so the
first step to take is to always shoot from a stable platform (e.g.
tripod) if at all possible. If that is not an option, aim for a faster
shutter speed if possible.
The second most important thing
that will affect the final resolution of your image is focus and depth
of field. Most people just aren't that good at focusing really well,
and with small camera systems, it's very hard to focus properly because
fundamentally it is very hard to see your subject through a small hole!
In any picture, there is only one plane of absolute focus (parallel to
the film plane in all cameras without movements). Areas is front and
behind this plane of absolute focus may appear acceptably sharp through
depth of field, but are not truly in focus. When calculating what is
'acceptably' sharp, many people use systems like hyper-focal distance,
circles of confusion etc. While these are useful aids, be aware that
most of these systems/tables were created long ago when imaging systems
and lenses were of lower quality - film and digital have come a long
way, as has lens design (with higher quality lenses, anyway), and so
modern systems are capable of capturing and printing far higher detail
than ever before. With this in mind, the goal should be to take
advantage of this higher recording ability, and thus to use a greater
depth of field in most situations. Blur is easy to add later, detail
lost however is lost forever.
The third determining factor
is the quality of your recording system - that is, the quality (and
size) of the system you are using to capture your image. Fundamentally,
bigger pieces of film (or bigger sensors) record more fine detail. This
is why two cameras both having 8 mega-pixels may be far apart in quality
terms - the digi-cam with its small sensor has far less resolving power
than the SLR with a large, high quality sensor. The ISO of your system
is also important - with film, the smaller grain allows for recording
of finer detail, and with digital, less noise is created at lower ISOs.
Finally, the quality of your lenses is of course very important - but
less important than the elements mentioned so far. Buying a better lens
will not help you take sharper, more richly detailed images unless you
address all of the above points first.
The second to last
important factor after technique, focus, and capture system resolution,
is how carefully you deal with your image in Photoshop. Poor Photoshop
technique can very quickly ruin fine detail in an image - poor
retouching, not understanding the image size dialog box, and bad
sharpening can all be catastrophic to an image's fine detail.
The
final factor, of least but still significant importance, is the
printing system's ability to resolve detail and it's native resolution
(PPI). This is where 300 PPI comes into play. Of course, 300 PPI of
unsharp, out of focus data will result in an unsharp, out of focus
print with no detail. But if you're managed the process properly up
until the point of printing, then the ideal situation is to send the
data to the printer with no further scaling by the printer's driver or
RIP system. Some popular printers and their native resolutions:
- Epson Inkjet Printers - 360 PPI
- Lamda - usually run at 200 PPI, you should ask for your prints to be run at 400 PPI prints for the finest results
- Pegasus - 250 PPI
Beyond these resolutions there is very little increase in resolved detail. N.B not none, just very little!
As
a good default, 300PPI is a sensible figure to use if you don't know
the resolution of your printing system, and in general will result in
very high quality results. In many ways, it is best to flip this
discussion on its head and ask - how large can I print my files?
Assuming you have shot a truly sharp image using good technique and
high quality systems, then depending on your capture system, you will
get a truly sharp print using the following formulas:
- Digital Camera at low ISO - divide the number of pixels your camera captures by 240
- Digital Camera at high ISO (> 400) - divide the number of pixels your camera captures by 260
- High Quality Film Scan of 35mm - divide the number of pixels you have from your scan by 300
- High Quality Film Scan of Medium Format - divide the number of pixels you have from your scan by 280
- High Quality Film Scan of Large Format - divide the number of pixels you have from your scan by 240
I.e.
the lower number you divide by, the less pixels you need to make a
sharp print. This is because the quality of those pixels is higher in
those systems - more of those pixels are being used to actually record
detail, and less to record noise/grain etc.
There is in
fact much more to the story of resolution, detail and sharpness, but
these are the basics. Master these are you will be well on your way to
sharp, richly detailed prints.